The highlands immediately west of Addis Ababa offer some of the most worthwhile, and underrated, sightseeing in the vicinity of the capital. For wildlife lovers, birdwatchers and keen walkers, a highlight of the region is the Menegasha National Forest, which can be reached from the main roads to both Sodo and Jimma, while those seeking a more demanding hike or an equestrian adventure are pointed to the scenic Mount Wenchi and its lovely crater lake.
Closer to town, the recently opened Born Free Sanctuary is another great birding site that also provides your best opportunity to see black-maned Abyssinian lions in surroundings more edifying than the zoo at Siddist Kilo. The most alluring town in the region is the hot springs resort of Ambo, which lies 125km west of Addis Ababa, and offers good access to Wenchi as well the pretty Guder Falls.
GEFERSA RESERVOIR Dammed in 1938 as a source of water for the expanding capital, the 1.2km2 Gefersa Reservoir lies at an altitude of 2,600m in the Akaki catchment area on the western outskirts of Addis Ababa. The lack of fringing vegetation makes it rather bland in scenic terms, but it has long been popular with birdwatchers as a good place to observe several avian endemics not easily seen at the main stops along the northern historical circuit.
The ubiquitous wattled ibis and more localised blue-winged goose are virtually guaranteed, while Abyssinian longclaw, Rouget’s rail and black-headed siskin are also regular, along with a few interesting non-endemics such as red-breasted sparrowhawk and (during the European winter) a variety of migrant waterfowl. The reservoir lies about 15km west of central Addis Ababa as the crow flies. The best birding sites are on the northern shore and can be accessed from the old Ambo road.
From the city centre, follow the old Ambo road for 2km past the suburb of Gefersa, or take the new Ambo road to the intersection with the old road at Burayu, then turn right on to the old road and follow it back towards Addis Ababa for 3km. Although the entire reservoir is fenced and the entrances are guarded, it no longer seems to be the case that a permit is required to access the shore.
BORN FREE SANCTUARY Established on a former military training ground in 2009, the Born Free Sanctuary protects 77ha of acacia-dominated woodland at an altitude of 2,600m near the small town of Holeta 20km. west of Addis Ababa. The woodland supports a varied selection of naturally occurring mammals, most conspicuously Menelik’s bushbuck, warthog, guereza and grivet monkey, but also more secretive nocturnal species such as leopard, spotted hyena and civet.
An extensive network of walking trails offers the opportunity to see many forest-associated birds including endemics such as Abyssinian catbird, white-cheeked turaco and white-backed black tit. It also serves as a shelter for rescued and orphaned animals, most of which are released into the wild, though others – notably some impressively maned Abyssinian lions kept in large fenced enclosures – are probably there to stay.
Facilities are limited at the time of writing, but a four-storey visitor and education centre, offering great rooftop views into the surrounding canopy, is currently under construction, and there is a picnic area at the base. Tourists are welcome but advance booking is required, and the management advise against visiting on Sunday when it tends to get busy with day trippers from Addis Ababa.
Birdwatchers can request to arrive earlier or stay later than the normal opening times to take advantage of the best birding hours. To get there, simply drive out of Addis Ababa on either the new or old Ambo road until their intersection at Burayu, then continue in the direction of Ambo for another 10km till you see the sanctuary signposted on the right. Using public transport, buses from the Merkato bus station to Holeta, about 6km further west, can drop you at the roadside entrance.
AMBO This busy small town of around 100,000 inhabitants stands at an altitude of 2,100m on the Huluka River 125km west of Addis Ababa by road. It was temporarily renamed Hagare Hiwot (Healthy Country) by Haile Selassie, who was rather partial to bathing in its therapeutic hot springs, and is referred to as such on some maps. The hot springs still form the centrepiece of a low-key resort connected to the Ambo Ethiopia Hotel, and the town is also home to Ethiopia’s most popular brand of mineral water. Other local attractions include the Guder Falls and Teltele Valley. Ambo is a good base for visits to the impressive Mount Wenchi.
MOUNT WENCHI This massive extinct volcano rises to an altitude of 3,386m some 20km south of Ambo, and its upper slopes – an extensive plateau covered in Afroalpine heather, moorland and a few relict patches of natural forest – are traversed by a variable dirt road that continues onward to the town of Woliso on the Jimma road. The volcano’s densely cultivated but picturesque caldera supports a population of around 2,500 Oromo farmers, who mostly adhere to Orthodox Christianity. The caldera also encloses a 4km2 crater lake dotted with small islands, one of which houses the venerable Monastery of Wenchi Chirkos, founded in the 13th century by Tekle Haymanot or in the 15th century by Emperor Zara Yaqob, depending on who you believe. The lake is now the focal point of the community-based Wenchi Eco-Tourism Association, which can arrange a variety of guided treks, boat trips and pony treks around its shores.
Article By: Kaleab Ayenew